The humid caress of Thailand’s capital’s air envelops me as I step off the train at Saphan Taksin BTS station.
This is where my today’s walking tour in Bangkok begins, through this part of the city, one of my favorites. Exploring the Charoen Krun area, from the Saphan Taksim Bridge to the beginning of Silom Road, then continuing along the whole road to its conclusion at Silom MRT Station. Wandering through alleyways, street-food stalls and hidden shops mostly frequented by locals. Take me on a fascinating tour through one of Bangkok’s most interesting and vibrant districts. From shopping arcades to humble noodle stalls, this district offers a compelling look into the many layers of Thai society.
Exploring the Vibrant Charoen Krung
My senses are overwhelmed by everything around me: from the chatter of street vendors to the brightly colored display of their stalls, from the sizzling woks to the brilliantly colored taxis and tuk-tuks zipping through traffic, from the honking from buses to the aromas of freshly minced meat along the road, the enveloping scent of Thai tea, the spices used in the various recipes, the laughter, the sounds of engines and people passing by: Charoen Krung is an explosion of life.
My stomach rumbles, eager to dive into the culinary delights of the place. Here the food choice is enormous: slices of sweet mango arranged on trays, with golden flesh and its inviting refreshing nectar. Grilled skewers sizzle over hot coals, and the savory scent of chicken, pork and beef mingles with the smoke. Chefs in stalls prepare ingredients for cooking, fragrant spices emanate from curry soups simmering in giant pots. The fried bananas, golden and crunchy, give off a sweet and inviting scent.
I slip into the crowded streets of Bangkok. The traffic flows fast, but there is a chaotic order. Locals deftly navigate between cars, buses and motorbikes. As a visitor, I just stay alert and go with the flow.
After a few steps, the stalls and makeshift restaurants give way to the imposing facades of hotels and office buildings. I’ve arrived at the corner of Silom Road, the neighborhood’s main artery where you can feel the frenetic pulse of the city at work.
Immersing yourself in the Eclecticism of the Eccentric Silom
I pass buildings with glittering facades, shop windows of jewelers and antique shops, 7-Elevens and bureaux de change. I admire the contrast between this worldly modernity and the attractive spirit houses, serene shrines scattered in many corners of the city, adorned with garlands of flowers invoking the protection of local deities. The skyscrapers reflect the sunlight above the carefully decorated shrines, symbols of the continuity between the present and the past. This mix of architectures and styles conveys the vital energy of a constantly changing metropolis, which nonetheless retains a deep link with its roots and traditions. This is probably the most fascinating aspect of Bangkok and Asia in general.
I continue to the dome of Sri Mariamman (also known as Maha Uma Devi Thai Temple or Wat Khaek), a Tamil Hindu temple founded in 1879. Unfortunately, I won’t have time to enter today. But I stop outside to admire the explosion of colors and sculptures that bestow blessings from above.
After passing several tailor shops, some fortune teller stalls and beauty/massage salons, I allow myself a moment to rest in the shade of a tree. Continuing to observe the spectacle of lives that pass in front of and around me. The ultra-modern Mahanakhon Tower soars above me, adding another gleaming jewel to Bangkok’s ever-changing skyline.
Continuing along Silom, I explore some of its hidden alleys. I pass by hair salons and a shop that promises made-to-measure suits in 24 hours. I turn into another alley where people eat at sidewalk tables in front of a Chinese temple, the food looks delicious. I continue, many people are starting to leave the offices crowding the surrounding streets. I see a sacred banyan tree with colored drapes knotted around the trunk. Locals have left offerings of food and bright red soda bottles at the base of the tree, seeking protection from the spirits that inhabit it.
Curiosity and the desire to explore led me through winding alleys covered with tangles of telephone wires and dotted with small stalls offering delicious culinary temptations and refreshing fruit juices in captivating colors. It’s getting harder and harder to resist the tempting dishes of Bangkok’s street food!
By now my stomach has announced its impatience too many times to ignore it again. I sit on a plastic stool in a busy corner stall, inhaling the intense aroma of garlic, chilies, chicken and basil sautéed in a fiery wok. The resulting “pad kra pao” dish lives up to the wait, the balanced spiciness and crunchy Thai basil leaves go perfectly with a fresh Chang beer.
In the late afternoon, Bangkok’s BTS and MRT trains fill up with commuters who are eager to start their journey home. Taxi drivers carelessly lean against their car doors, immersed in their smartphones, waiting for their next customers. Office workers crowd the entrance to BTS Chong Nonsi station, eager for their trips home after a long day at work.
Near the Sala Daeng BTS station, the sidewalks are brimming with passers-by in every direction, patrons settling in for a quick meal at street food stalls and people busy shopping, creating a bustling melting pot of hectic activity harmonized by the pace of the city. The space is contested by locals and tourists, all equally attracted by the local delicacies and the irrepressible energy of this place. Colorful signs advertising ‘Authentic Thai Massage’ and ‘ice cold beers’ tempt passersby after hours of exploring the city on foot.
Bangkok: Eternal Inspiration
Now near the subway station of Silom, today’s destination, I notice a cart from which the smoky aroma of grilled pork skewers is released. My mouth is watering as I wait in line with other commuters. Life in Silom goes hectic, but it’s always good to carve out time to savor the present moment. I thank the salesman with a dazzling smile as he hands me the delicious steaming “Mu ping” (pork skewers). I continue munching on my snack, feeling a sense of connection with these places that I have never felt in my hometown. A deep attachment I feel for many places in Asia.
I join the crowd of locals waiting for the subway train to return to my daily accommodation, my belly full of local delicacies, my senses electrified by scents and colors, my feet aching from the road and my heart full of inspiration.
The dilemma of which district of Bangkok to explore next can wait until tomorrow, today I gratefully immerse myself in the memories of this day spent in a multifaceted city, with its streets teeming with life and its people exuding humanity from every poro, that once again wrapped me in his warm and eccentric embrace, nourishing body and spirit.
I will come back again to this magical melting pot of tradition and modernity, to discover other unexpected glimpses and savor new delights.
Bangkok never ceases to amaze and inspire!
