In the center of the bustling city of Seoul, between offices and shops, cafes and restaurants, streets and alleys dotted with people always on the move, lies the beautiful Jogyesa temple (조계사) belonging to the Jogye order of the Korean Buddhism.
The sacred architecture, set between tall buildings and skyscrapers, not far from the royal palaces and the famous Insa-dong area, represents the most important and most visited place where Korean Buddhist disciples gather in prayers, songs, readings and ceremonies. Originally built in the 14th century, during the end of the Goryeo period and the beginning of the Joseon dynasty, it was burned to the ground and then brought back to life in 1910 and renamed Gackhwangsa temple. In 1936 it became the center of Korean Buddhism and changed its name to Tegosa temple, which was then again modified in 1954 and called with the current appellative Jogyesa (조계사) during a purification rite held after liberation from the Japanese occupation to forget the tragic colonial past.
The colorful Jogyesa temple (조계사) is a place that transmits calm and serenity. You can access the area of cult through the Iljumun : the main portal, called “The one pillar gate”. The pillars, if viewed from the side, appear as a single column that supports the building, to symbolize the illusion of the world as things are not always as they seem. It is also the boundary between the sacred place of the temple and the worldly one of the rest of the city.
With just a few steps you will find on your right the Beaksong , the great white pine tree that, with its almost 500 years of life, is considered a natural monument of Korea (Natural Monument of Korea No. 9) .
At the center of the building complex is the Daeungjeon : the Buddha Room. It is the main architecture where the daily rituals and songs are held, accessible to all visitors. Built with pine wood, from the high ceiling and the beautiful and colorful external decorations it contains the 3 large golden statues of almost 5m. of height of the buddhas. At the center is Buddha Shakyamuni, founder of Buddhism with Bhaiśajyaguru Buddha to his right, known as the “Buddha of medicine” and to the left the Buddha Amitabha, the “Buddha of light and immeasurable life”. The statues were carved with hands and fingers positioned to form particular gestures, called mudras, which have different symbolic values in the Asian tradition.
In the large courtyard in front of the Daeungjeon you will find the beautiful tree of about 25 meters of the “Sophora of Japan” (or also known as Chinese scholar tree, as a native of China). It has been here for about 450 years, considered as a sort of purifier of negative energies, he protects the surrounding sacred buildings and their visitors with his aura of peace. It is often decorated during Buddhist religious festivals held at the Jogyesa temple (조계사).
Beside the Beomjong : the bell pavilion. The building houses the four percussion instruments played every day in the morning and evening: the giant bell in the center of the room, the cloud gong, the drum and the trunk carved in the shape of a fish.
Another building belonging to the Jogyesa temple (조계사) is the modern Geuknakjeon : the hall of Paradise. Dedicated to Amitabha Buddha, where Buddhist lectures and funerals are held.
Opposite the Daeungjeon you will find the octagonal 10 storey stupa which contains a relic of the Buddha Shakyamuni, brought to Korea from Sri Lanka by the monk Dhammapala in the early 20th century.
Several shops selling clothes for monks, incense, Buddha statues and various other items that can also be purchased as souvenirs have emerged in the area around the temple.
The most interesting time to visit the Jogyesa temple (조계사) is during the lantern festival, which is celebrated around May, based on the lunar calendar. The sacred area and its architectures are decorated with hundreds of colorful illuminated lanterns and rituals, ceremonies, songs and dances are held waiting for the arrival of the parade of luminous paper sculptures that take inspiration from the Buddhist iconography and that they stop in the street in front of the complex of religious buildings.
To reach the Jogyesa temple (조계사) you can take the convenient subway and get off at Anguk, Jonggak or Gwanghwamun stations and walk for a few minutes.
I recommend it as a good place to relax and take a break while visiting the royal palaces, the traditional village of Bukchon or the tourist area of Insa-Dong. They also organize templestay at Jogyesa temple where you can relax and meditate following different programs that will give you a good introduction to the Korean Buddhist culture.
